Lots has appeared in the trade and consumer press of late concerning Spain’s signature sparkling wine, Cava.
Since 1970, a secondary fermentation white or pink sparkling wine of Denominación de Origen (D.O.) status, about 95% of all Cava is produced in the Penedès area of Catalonia. All sweetness levels are allowed, though the vast majority crossing the Atlantic are Brut or Brut nature.
Regulations for Cava's age labeling have been recently amended: Acquired from organically grown vines of 10 years minimum age with a wine aging basis of 9 months for Cava de Guarda, 18 months for Guarda Superior Reserva, 30 months for Guarda Superior Gran Reserva, and 36 months for Cava de Paraje Calificado (a single-vineyard wine). Cava D.O.’s President Javier Pagés says what’s more significant is that “having one branded offer from the region will make Cava stronger rather than possessing many propositions”; a sober response to the upstart Corpinnat initiative and those from other family-owned and quality-focused producers.
Most recently, the application of a winery controlling the entire production process from vine to wine may add the designation of ‘Elaborador Integral,’ distinguishing smaller producers wishing to announce their "estate" model to the world. However, bigger operations, such as Codorníu, may also apply for its usage.
Cava Producers
Under the shadow of a seventh-generation winegrowers’ house at the border of Alt and Baja Penedès, Xavier Bolet and his father José in 1982 became the first to bottle their family’s wine. With a wish to further enotourism, guests can now stay in Bolet's circa 2019 five-room facility. Bolet’s 70ha of calcareous soil vineyards have been fully organic since 2003; its house style clear and straightforward with little amelioration.
“Our philosophy has been to sell Cava with a minimum of two to three years aging when it begins to develop complexity poised on a firm structure,” said Xavier. Regarding the new regulations, he said, “It’s a big step that the DO is promoting points of organic production. By many also using no sulfites and other more natural ways, [it] helps the public to know Cava’s individual producers while raising up a profile of the region, which customers seek.”
Atypical for sparkling wine production anywhere, Alta Alella’s Mireia Pujol Busquets seeks transparency in not adding sugar or liqueur d'expedition. “It’s important that each vintage expresses itself to the consumer,” proclaimed the winemaker. Alta Alella’s bottles normally list disgorgement dates while everything is produced as Gran Reserva and Brut Nature with no malolactic, and it’s naturally all organically grown on its estate.
Suffering with high temperatures and low rainfall, all-female staffed Vins El Cep’s winemaker Maite Esteve had commenced harvesting Macabeo the day I arrived. Owned by four families, the 160ha are farmed organically and biodynamically (25%). Its reasonably priced MIM Rosado made from Pinot Noir impressed me most, along with some massive old vines Esteve showed me!
While smaller estates have helped to drive the D.O.’s upward momentum, when visiting, I didn’t miss the chance to meet Codorníu’s Technical Board Director Bruno Colomer (pictured in opening image) to bear witness to what high marks may be achieved by relative giants. Colomer treated me to a dive into older vintages of its Ars Collecta brand, Gran Reservas. Single-vineyard, Paraje Calificado samples of its 2010 vintages of 459 and El Tros Nou, and 2011 examples of La Pleta and La Fideuera, had extreme terroir expressions.
Juvé & Camps (JyC) Marketing Director Catarina Soares proudly announced, “We’re 100% organic certified, ensuring both the quality and the sustainability of our products.” Its U.S. market entry-level Reserva de la Familia Gran Reserva has long been a benchmark worldwide for the Brut Nature style. Vintus' Anthony Cohen looks after JyC's U.S. presence, a supplier he views as a “sleeping beauty.” The importer of Champagne’s Bollinger and Ayala noted that "sparkling wine sales grew sharply during the pandemic when we'd taken it on, with JyC a beautiful substitute for those who may need a half-cost option to Champagne, embracing a guarantee of heritage and quality."
Another Cava estate growing fully organically and mostly biodynamically is Parés Baltà. While many of its bottlings are estimable, its late-disgorged Blanca Cusiné 2011 astounded me when lunching on-site with its winemaker Marta Casas and family. Its 2012 expression also impressed, which I enjoyed with Joan Cusiné at Wines of Spain’s 2023 Great Match.
A pillar of importer DeMaison Selections’ portfolio is Avinyó. Here, Xavier Esteve embraces the difficulties inherent in his appellation in competing against itself via undercutting of prices by a few cents between smaller producers as a consequence of the pressure placed upon them by the larger companies selling volumes. He echoed what I heard from many others in Penedès of the need to recreate and expand Cava’s messaging to improve its quality perception amongst U.S. consumers.
Cava in the On-Premise
New Orleans’ Cane and Table General Manager Emily Shoemaker said, “Avinyó’s pétillant with its subtle bubbles is delicious, but if we carry a Spanish sparkler by the glass it ought to be Cava with its greater assertion.” Hence her pouring Esteve’s 2017 Brut Nature Reserva by the glass.
Gonzalez Byass USA’s Director of Marketing Ted Emerson, the importer of their parent company’s Vilarnau brand, wrote, “For too many years, the category has been dominated by big brands founded upon mass production and shorter aging. Cava’s still a small category in the U.S. compared to Champagne and prosecco, so it’s pressed to compete for shelf space and wine list placements. But with more Cava brands receiving longer aging, smaller production, organic estate-grown fruit, and methods highlighted in the new D.O. classifications, the word is spreading of the category’s combined value and quality, so we view its future very positively.”
Beverage Director Madeline Maldonado of Manhattan’s Mercado Little Spain oversees wine programs of four restaurants and three bars. “Cava’s its own thing beyond the comparison to prosecco and Champagne,” she said, “with grower initiatives like Corpinnat helping bolster Cava’s identity as unique, and the annual Cava Discovery Week assisting in long-term consumer recognition.”
Always listing Cavas first amongst bubblies, Maldonado’s house pour is Cava Cuvée José with JyC’s Rosado also poured by the glass. Between its private label Cuvée José from Raventós i Blanc and all Cavas, Maldonado pours approximately three to four cases weekly.
Recommendations:
- Avinyó Brut Nature Reserva $25
- Alta Alella Mirgin 'Laieta' Gran Reserva Brut Nature Rosé $26
- Bolet Reserva Brut Nature $17
- Juvé & Camps Reserva de la Familia Gran Reserva $19
- Parés Baltà Blanca Cusiné $40
- Vins El Cep Gelida Brut Reserva Pinot Noir Rosé $20
Since 1986, David Furer has served in the on- and off-premise trenches in his native U.S. and former adoptive homes of Great Britain and Germany; directed & hosted international wine business conferences in Europe, Asia, and online concerned with its future and climate change; and contributed to wines & spirits media outlets in the U.S. and Great Britain. He also provides marketing & communications expertise to organizations throughout the world from his New York home while somehow finding time to host the consumer-facing podcast Drinking on the Edge. You can reach him at [email protected].
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