Even as beach destination cocktail scenes evolve, Waikiki Beach remains the kind of place where old cocktail tropes linger. Before one opens the menu, there is a good chance the customer is already anticipating every conceivable iteration of "Tiki” cocktail as well as a liberal use of rum, pineapples, mangoes, papaya, and paper umbrellas. And he or she would not be incorrect. Depending on the age of the customer, anything goes, from traditional and contemporary spirit-forward Tiki drinks, to light and bright Japanese whiskey sours, rum flights, and fishbowl-sized productions rendered in bright colors.
However, there is more complexity and intention than what initially meets the eye and the other senses. House Without a Key at the Halekulani Hotel endures because it thrives on nostalgia while the heads of the household (Chef Jarrin Otake; Lead Bartender Tuda Grehan; Director of Food & Beverage Operations Joe Diver; and Executive Chef Christian Testa) understand that tastes and expectations continuously shift. With its relaunch in fall 2022, those responsible for carrying the legacy of this classic hideaway forward are tasked with bringing in new ideas while preserving its historic integrity. The old inspires the new, ensuring regular guests and visitors experience a time-honored corner of paradise.
During Hawaii’s “golden age of travel” over the course of the 20th Century, the atmospheric House Without A Key was a Waikiki fixture consistently attracting well-heeled residents and travelers in the know. Given the ambiance’s deep literary roots (the namesake “House Without A Key” by author Earl Derr Biggers; Ernest Hemingway, who honeymooned at Halekulani in 1940 with bride and noted journalist Marsha Gellhorn) and the actual roots of the hotel’s 135-year-old Kiawe Tree, maintaining the venue’s original appeal was critical, down to the built-in backdrop of the Pacific Ocean shoreline and Diamond Head.
Beyond an airy and spectacular new entryway whisking guests into House Without A Key’s heavenly universe, the addition of a separate bar area (Earl's), a state-of-the-art exhibition-style glass kitchen, and custom Marra Forni brick oven, all prove to be relevant and current elements that build upon the venue’s long-standing cache and exclusivity. The distinctive 'Table 97' (available only by advance reservation) and the reintroduction of Hemingway’s favorite drink (the Daiquiri) to the menu nicely balances out more contemporary creations. It adds up to the start of a vivid new chapter in the restaurant’s existence.
“Halekulani was the last hotel on Oahu to reopen after the pandemic in October 2021,” details Hotel Manager Davide Barnes. “We reopened the restaurant in phases, first with cocktails and entertainment in our updated cocktail area, then introduced the reimagined dining area with an exhibition kitchen, and the brand new Earl’s pool bar. Throughout this time, we were in constant communication with our guests and residents through email communications, media releases, and social media.”
Barnes continues, pointing out that regular and returning customers were excited to come back and see what changes took place to the iconic restaurant, as it has been welcoming guests for over a century. "Many were pleasantly surprised to see that although House Without A Key had a new look, it still provided the comforting 'sense of place' in Hawaii and featured signature items such as our Joy’s Special (Crabmeat / avocado / bacon sandwich), Mai Tai, and of course Coconut Cake, but also new creations, which we hope will become new signature dishes," he says.
“The menus at House Without A Key and Earl’s are very much an extension of the overall ambiance,” Chef Testa stresses. “The legendary restaurant remains one of the most iconic venues in Waikiki for live Hawaiian entertainment, traditional hula performances, and sunset cocktails, including our signature Mai Tais and other delectable favorites. We offer all-day dining featuring 'local' style comfort food from various cultures, just like Hawaii itself, with its diversity of ethnicities and experiences.”
This is done mindfully, as the kitchen has adapted to the changing needs of customers as well as bolder, more cosmopolitan tastes. Director of Food & Beverage Operations Diver notes one food menu highlight that resonates with customers is the House Without A Key “Laulau,” a deconstructed version of traditional laulau with the flavors of pork and butterfish, served on a bed of coconut stewed luau leaves and a side of fresh local poi.
Additional menu items, both made using our new custom Marra Forni brick oven, include Char Siu Coconut Baby Back Ribs with a hoisin and Chinese five spice honey glaze, and the Flat Bread "Skizza" Country Comfort, which is a fresh take on the classic Margherita pizza, island style.
The experience flows effortlessly from indoors to out, thanks to the use of contemporary indoor and outdoor lounge furnishings, elegant modern landscaping, and artwork (including a Charles Loomis Branch Sculpture crafted from the fabled Kiawe Tree branches) were introduced to harmonize with the natural landscape and sunsets. Updated landscaping provides an extra layer of sensory appeal through the use of flowering plants, foliage, and indigenous and local Hawaiian species, including the King Kalakaua spider lily and rare Dwarf Rainbow Plumeria.
Tuda Grehan, who is minding the bar program of the “House,” muses on her efforts to keep it relevant yet true to its history. She goes through the drinks menu, noting that the recipes simultaneously address evolving tastes without compromising the successful formula that’s sustained the bar for decades. She cites the examples of their signature take on the classic Mai Tai, the Yellow Umbrella (fresh Lilikoi Juice, Coconut Matcha Syrup, tequila, and mezcal); the Coconut Cake Martini, which pays tribute to the hotel’s signature coconut cake; and The Gable, a refreshing zero-proof cocktail (cucumber juice, pineapple cordial, fresh lemon, aloe juice, and mango ice).
“When I am creating a drink or a menu, I still think like an artist,” she explains. “I spend a lot of time in the kitchen for my research and development. When we’re developing a menu for any specific outlet at Halekulani, we think about the unique sense of place first. A lot of that is dictated by the vibe of our long-established guests. Feedback from customers is huge in helping us to know what people love, or what item that’s not quite working can be replaced by a more current item. While my process can be a little bit vague to some, I just keep working on different aspects of flavor, texture, and balance until the concept feels complete. Usually, I start with a flavor combination I think is interesting. From there, I will make some custom ingredients in my ‘kitchen-lab’ time. From there, I build around it and try to elevate the chosen spirit and bring balance to it. I say, like an artist, because there’s no exact formula and it’s always a different process. It’s the same mental process as to how I’ve always made art.”
Grehan acknowledges that Honolulu is home to many excellent cocktail bars, but not enough, and she hopes her work for House Without A Key and other Halekulani projects will inspire other places to become more adventurous and diverse. While the scene is headed in the right direction, she feels individual bars would be more likely to go the same distance as House Without A Key if they slowed down and took the time to make an average cocktail program great.
“Many throw in pineapple juice and call it a day,” she laments. “Tiki culture historically mixes a range of Polynesian cultures and calls it 'Hawaiian.' This culture carelessly lumps various cultures into one, which should not be the case as they all fight to represent their uniqueness and authenticity. We have a greater responsibility to respect the culture and demonstrate what we are about. We are people with high-level creativity and incredible capability to make something very special. There’s some aspect of fighting stereotypes and being bold enough to push things forward in our industry."
For his part, Diver says that when it comes to food recipe development and presentation, procuring and integrating local ingredients is a priority, which demands team work with trusted companies around the islands for the freshest products.
“All of our chefs have classical culinary training in their respective fields, and living in Hawaii, their approach to cooking has evolved to incorporate local flavors and ingredients,” says Diver. “Diets and tastes have changed over the years, so we constantly innovate to appeal to both local residents and visitors, with an increased emphasis on environmental consciousness and greater use of local products. Taste and visual appeal remain paramount in everything that we do."
Recipes: Aloha by the Glass
If every picture tells a story, the photogenic cocktails created by Lead Mixologist Grehan are intended to make every customer’s story from their House Without A Key visit epic. Whether the customer’s tastes lean toward heady spirit-forward drinks, delightful tropical confections, or something in between, the following allow them to choose their own Hawaiian adventure.
Halekulani Mai Tai
"The signature recipe dates back to the reopening of the hotel more than 30 years ago and has become a drink that guests anticipate with every visit," says Grehan. "People like our Mai Tais because we always use fresh juice. We blend fresh lime juice and simple syrup, which allows for a perfect balance of tartness and sweetness.”
Ingredients:
1/3 oz Orgeat Syrup
1/3 oz Orange Curacao
1/3 oz Rock Candy Syrup
1¼ oz Fresh Lime Juice
¾ oz Bacardi Gold Rum
¾ oz Bacardi Select
½ oz Lemon Hart 151 Rum (float)
Directions:
Pour orgeat syrup, orange Curacao, rock candy syrup, lime juice, Bacardi Gold, and Bacardi Select into glass. Pack with crushed ice. Float 1/2-ounce Lemon Hart 151 Rum. Garnish with lime wheel, sugar cane stick, mint leaf, and Vanda orchid.
Coconut Cake Martini
“This dreamy cocktail is inspired by Halekulani’s famous signature coconut cake," says Grehan. "Moses 'Moke' Kawaha, a chef hired at Halekulani in the 1960s, inherited this recipe and later developed other famous Halekulani treats like the popovers and brownies. Although Moke originally used custard and fresh grated coconut in his coconut cake recipe, the modified recipe used today still tastes like the original.”
Ingredients:
Vanilla Bean-infused Pau Maui Vodka
Mahina Coconut Rum
Amaretto DiSaronno
Fresh Lemon Juice
House-made Coconut Foam
Blended Coconut Flakes
Almond Salt
Yellow Umbrella
“Daydream of your next Hawaiian vacation and imagine your flight is almost ready to land in Honolulu," says Grehan. "You gaze blissfully at the Pacific Ocean’s captivating hues and the light blue sky. When you begin to look closer, you notice a buttercup yellow dot amid all the blue and white on the island. The iconic yellow umbrella materializes, acting as a subtle reminder for guests flying in and out of Hawaii that Halekulani will always be their home. This yellow parasol standing at the hotel’s pool, famed for its mosaic of a Cattleya orchid rendered in imported South African glass tiles, stands out among the sea of white umbrellas.”
Ingredients:
1½ oz El Jimador Reposado Tequila
1½ oz Xicaru Mezcal
2 oz Fresh Lilikoi (Passion Fruit) Juice
½ pz Coconut Matcha Syrup
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