Contrary to what you may have heard, beer is not dead. It has, however, taken a bit of a tumble. After years of explosive craft-beer growth, beer programs have lost their dominance. But for operators willing to rethink the category—from the brands and styles they carry to staff training, events, and food pairings—there are still plenty of ways to put beer back in the spotlight and generate more business at the bar.
We checked in with some savvy operators who are putting the spotlight back on beer and giving guests a reason to explore beyond their usual pint.
A Category in Transition
For decades, beer was the undisputed beverage of choice for American drinkers. But changing drinking habits, shifting tastes and competition from other categories have contributed to its downturn. Beau Sturm, co-owner of Starlite Management Co., which operates five popular bars in greater Boston, said that alcohol consumption, in general, has dipped. “We see it in our bars. Drinking is (or should be) a social endeavor. People just aren't as social right now. People are also much more health-conscious, which has tempered drinking in general.”
Beer and whiskey specialist Lew Bryson sees another shift: “COVID changed on-premise in ways we either haven’t realized or refuse to recognize; number one change, people don’t go out as late.” He also believes the industry needs to stop waiting for beer to return to its old patterns: “There are a lot of people in the industry who just can’t help believing that if they wait long enough, things will come back. They won't, they will not just snap back.”
Bryson also noted a “sea change” in tastes. “Key-lime milkshake sour IPAs aren’t the fun they were seven years ago. People aren’t reaching for ‘the newest beer you have’ as much anymore. And, yes, GLP-1s have an effect. Best to adapt by offering half-pours (which you should have been doing anyway).”
At Monk’s Pub in Chicago, General Manager Melissa Shary is seeing a return to the classics: “The biggest change we have seen is the uptick in seltzers and RTD cocktails. Craft beer has definitely lost market share to those items, but we do see the return to classic styles like Lagers and Pilsners.” If the beer drinker is changing, the beer program needs to change with them. And sometimes, that starts with simply keeping things fresh.
Keep It Fresh
There’s nothing worse than stale beer—or a beer list that has gone stale. Too often, bar managers get stuck in a “if it’s not broken, don’t fix it” mentality. But a little change can give regulars a reason to keep exploring and provide staff with something new to talk about. Monk’s Pub serves 150 beers, 16 of which are on tap and rotate regularly. The package list changes in the spring and in the fall to reflect the seasonal changes in Chicago.
Shary said the rotating draft lineup is key to keeping the program interesting. “Some patrons will come in and say, ‘Give me that IPA I had last week’ but our response is ‘Nope, sorry, today we have this instead. Try it.’” That sense of discovery extends beyond the draft lines. Monk’s also offers flights, giving guests a low-commitment way to explore the list, while seeking out harder-to-find beers for the more dedicated craft crowd.
“We are also able to acquire the harder to get beers that the craft beer nerds (that's an affectionate term.) seek out,” she added. And beer-focused events provide another way to keep the list, and the customer experience, fresh. “We also do events with breweries where we feature multiple beers on tap too.” Today’s trends and tastes are constantly changing so don’t assume you know what your customers want … keep the list moving.
Local & Craft: Put Your Community in the Glass
If beer has lost some of its broad appeal, local connection can give customers a reason to choose it. Supporting nearby breweries creates a sense of community, gives guests a story behind what they’re drinking and can help your beer program stand out from the competition. At Monk’s, Shary has seen customers become more intentional about supporting local breweries. “Everyone has seen the struggles of their neighborhood or local craft brewery, many of which unfortunately no longer exist. I think the shock of these closures has made people think again and start supporting local. While Monk's Pub carries many styles from all over the globe, guests certainly stick to their favorite ‘go to’ local craft beer.”
Some operators take that connection a step further by creating their own beers with local breweries. At Sunset Club on Plum Island in Newburyport, Mass., Beau Sturm partnered with Amesbury, Mass.-based BareWolf Brewing on a house Sunset Club IPA. “It’s our best-selling beer not named Corona,” he said.
And while local remains a strong draw, The Sample Room in Minneapolis shows that craft customers don't necessarily want to choose between local identity and familiar favorites. “Local is still the most popular, but old school cans of PBR, Hamm's, and Coors Light are bigger than they used to be,” Bar Manager Ryen Goldsmith said. “Style wise, hops are at the top with our best seller being a hazy IPA from Falling Knife Brewery.”
Old School is the New “New”
Nostalgia may be one of beer’s biggest assets right now. More than wine or spirits, beer has an undeniable connection to tradition and comfort. Operators are finding that tried-and-true brands and styles can be just as compelling as the latest craft release. Beau Sturm said both classic local and familiar macro brands are seeing new life.
“The tried-and-true beers, whether local craft beers that have endured (like Notch in Salem) or back-to-the-basics like High Life and Coors Banquet are making a comeback. Mexican macro beers are also trending. At The Paddle Inn in Newburyport, we can't keep Victoria in stock. At Sunset Club, Corona should buy us a boat, we sell so much of it. I also love that Modelo is now the most-sold beer in the world. I love that beer.”
Bryson sees the same shift, particularly when craft breweries give those familiar beers a fresh presentation. “The trend I see is a growing taste for old-school beer. Local brewers and craft brewers who’ve been able to jump on that are really hitting it. I’m thinking of Firestone Walker 805, and Narragansett Lager, and here in [Pennsylvania], two regional craft brewers, Troegs and New Trail, have been doing well with sharply packaged lagers, Pennsylvania Lager and Crisp Lager respectively. They’ve already got line extensions, and Pennsylvania Lager is Troegs second best year-round seller after a little over a year on the market.”
For some operators, the appeal goes beyond what's in the glass. Sturm uses presentation and a little theatricality to turn familiar beers into a fun experience.
“There are always promotional tricks to employ. For example, at Trina's Starlite in Somerville, we do a bucket of High Life ponies (8oz bottles) and at The Paddle Inn, we serve High Life 40oz in a champagne bucket on ice with champagne glasses (it's the ‘Champagne of Beer’ after all).” Incorporating a little “luxury” into the experience, even when the beer itself is decidedly familiar, taps into the today’s popular trend of small indulgences.
How Low Can You Go?
Perhaps the strongest opportunity for boosting beer sales lies in the “no/low” category. For a long time, non-alcoholic beers were nothing more than an afterthought for busy bars. Options (and quality) were minimal. Not so anymore. Bryson cites the significance of the movement, saying, “Almost every bar I go into these days has a no/low option (more often NA), and it’s not just sitting there, and it’s not just for non-drinkers. Zebra-striping, having a ‘regular’ drink and then a no/low drink, and repeating is becoming A norm, if not THE norm. You’ll want to have a no/low option, because you can charge more for that than you can for water or soda.”
Shary with Monk’s Pub agreed: “I think we have about 10 different NA beers currently, including some Trappist and Belgian NA beers. We try to carry a well-rounded selection spanning across all beer styles so if we get a guest who wants an NA Sour, we have it. If they want an NA stout, we have that too.”
At The Sample Room, Ryen Goldsmith sees the same thing, stating: “We definitely have a huge increase in NA beer, especially with local breweries making their own offerings. When we added Bauhaus NAH to our list, it went from having to order a case of NA every four to six months, to two to three cases every couple of weeks.”
Train the Team
An educated, enthusiastic staff can be one of a bar’s most effective beer-selling tools. Yet wine and cocktails often get the lion’s share of on-premise beverage education, while beer’s complexity and diversity tend to be overlooked. Investing in beer training gives staff the knowledge and confidence to make recommendations and engage guests.
Sturm takes a straightforward approach: “If you want to truly increase beer sales and have a greater focus on beer, then focus on beer. Educate your staff. Highlight it on your menu.” Sturm also recommends giving the program a clear point of view, whether that means focusing on local craft beers, international macros, European styles or something more specific. “My suggestion would also be to have an angle: local craft beers within 100 miles, macro-beers from around the world, European styles, rice beers and sake.”
At Monk’s Pub, staff education is more formal. Shary said all front-of-house employees earn their Cicerone Beer Server Certification, giving them the knowledge to confidently guide guests through the list. “They need to be able to speak to the guest and make recommendations based on that knowledge.” But education doesn’t stop with certification. Monk’s encourages staff to taste new beers as they arrive and use their shift drinks to explore the list themselves. “We of course allow our staff to taste any new selections that are tapped, and many use their shift drink to explore our list on their own. Ultimately our staff wants the guests to be happy with their beverage selection, that is the end goal.”
Give People a Reason to Go Out
As consumers drink more intentionally, giving them a reason to spend an evening at your bar can be just as important as what's on the beer list. Games, live music, trivia and other social events can turn a drink into an experience—and put more beer orders on the table. Lew Bryson sees particular opportunity in events that get people off their phones and interacting with each other. “One thing I do see working is brand-related bar games: sponsored trivia nights, cornhole, or ‘music bingo.’ Seriously, get them off their screens and they’ll drink like they used to.”
Bryson also points to an overlooked group that may be going out more often than you think: An older crowd. “Don’t overlook them,” he advised. “I’ve been out a lot more for music lately, and that’s who’s out: old heads. They don’t drink as much as they used to, but they often go out two or three times a week, especially if there’s live music or a good event.” Bryson points to a recent climate-change talk at his local brewpub that packed the house and kept the waitstaff busy. His takeaway? Give people a reason to show up, and the beer sales can follow. “A 32-year-old blues guitarist has a following of 50+ year old groupies … well, okay, sell them witbier.”
Quick Tips: 3 Ways to Boost Your Beer Program
1. Bring Back the Classics
Nostalgia is working. Stock familiar lagers, pilsners and old-school brands alongside craft selections. Don’t underestimate the appeal of beers customers already know and love.
2. Add a Little Luxury
Presentation can make an everyday beer feel like an occasion. Try creative serves, special glassware, buckets on ice or other simple touches that make the experience feel more memorable.
3. Give Them a Reason to Gather
Beer is social by nature, so build occasions around it. Trivia, music bingo, brewery events, tastings and other game nights can give customers a reason to come in—and give your beer program a bigger role in the experience.